French department store BHV has ended its controversial partnership with Shein, just seven months after opening a permanent shop for the fast-fashion giant in its Paris flagship.
The change comes as Société des Grands Magasins, which has operated BHV since 2023, sells the Parisian department store to its current management team.
The new leadership team is being led by Karl-Stéphane Cottendin, who described the Shein tie-up as “a mistake”, according to a spokesperson.
BHV opened the permanent Shein space in November, but the launch was met with protests and widespread criticism from politicians, retailers and fashion industry figures.
The partnership drew backlash because of Shein’s ultra-low-price business model and scrutiny over illegal products being sold through its platform.
The French government launched an attempt to suspend Shein’s platform on the same day the BHV shop opened, although the move was later overturned by a Paris court.
The launch also failed to win over some of Shein’s own shoppers, with customers who queued for the opening reportedly disappointed by the store’s range and pricing. Many said prices were significantly higher than those found on Shein’s online platform.
The partnership added to pressure on SGM, which had already been struggling before the Shein deal and had fallen behind on payments to suppliers.
Several brands left BHV in protest after the Shein launch, deepening concerns over the department store’s positioning and future direction.
Shein said the collaboration with SGM had always been intended to be temporary.
The online retailer said it respected BHV’s decision, but added that it was “regrettable” customers had been required to navigate ongoing construction works inside the department store.
The end of the partnership marks a sharp reversal for Shein’s push into permanent bricks-and-mortar retail in France.
Earlier this year, BHV had planned to expand the tie-up by opening Shein shops in five more French cities, including Angers, Dijon, Grenoble, Limoges and Reims.
The split also underlines the reputational risks facing legacy department stores as they look for ways to attract younger shoppers and drive footfall while protecting brand equity.
For BHV, the management buyout now gives the retailer a chance to reset its strategy after months of controversy over one of the most divisive retail partnerships in European fashion.
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