The EU is launching a formal investigation into Shein over multiple suspected breaches of European laws, including the sale of childlike sex dolls and weapons.
The European Commission said on Tuesday (17 February) that it had opened the inquiry after demanding information from Shein in 2025.
A senior EU official also highlighted reports of cosmetics, clothing and electronic items that did not comply with EU law.
The inquiry will look into three areas of the retailer’s service which have raised cause for concern.
Alongside the sale of illegal goods, the investigation is set to look at the “addictive design of the service Shein is providing,” according to an EU official.
Additionally, it will investigate the fashion brand’s recommender systems that may overwhelm its users with suggestions of items to purchase.
Speaking to The Guardian, the official said: “We have a suspicion that the system of Shein is not built to avoid the sale of illegal products.
The EU added that the company’s recommender systems were opaque and may not meet the transparency requirements of the bloc’s Digital Services Act (DSA).
Under its rules, the recommender is required to “provide one easily available alternative which is not based on profiling”.
However, in its preliminary investigation, the EU found that the group only explained “in a very general manner” how its recommender system worked.
Shein claimed that it took its obligations under the DSA seriously, that it had always fully co-operated with the European Commission and Coimisiún na Meán, and that it would continue to do so. It noted that it had taken steps to limit harms.
Shein said: “Over the last few months, we have continued to invest significantly in measures to strengthen our compliance with the DSA.
“These include comprehensive systemic-risk assessments and mitigation frameworks, enhanced protections for younger users, and ongoing work to design our services in ways that promote a safe and trusted user experience.”
The EU initially launched its request for information on how the company complied or did not comply with the DSA in April 2024.
It has now concluded that the retailer believes its services are at “low risk” of breaking EU law.
Despite this, the EU argues that the business is at “high risk” of selling items which breach EU laws.
It said that Shein was co-operating with the European Commission and that the new inquiry did not mean the business would ultimately be banned. However, it noted that a block on European selling remained a “last resort” it the group did not abide by EU laws.
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